Romantically Chaotic Hanoi

Asia Destinations Vietnam

Wow, Hanoi, where do I start? 🙂 First of all, I’d like to say that if it weren’t for my job, I would have probably never visited it. I am not even sure why but I am not much of a fan of Asian destinations. I do know Thailand has awesome beaches. Been there done that. But that’s about it, right?

Wrong, of course. I know Asia has a lot to offer, I just couldn’t seem to find the opportunity to go back. Until this April when I needed to visit Hanoi on business. It was a tough bargain but I managed to find a good distributor for our products in Vietnam. And after one year of “online relationship” it was time for me to pack my bags and meet their team in person.

Honestly, I was scared to shit out of this trip. I have never flown so far on my own (I always have someone to “hold my hand” up there in the air) and I kept on postponing it for as long as I could. But a woman’s gotta do what a woman’s gotta do, so I booked a flight to Kuala Lumpur (I also had some business to take care of there) and took a connecting flight to Hanoi. Che sera, sera 🙂

The traffic “wow”

Landing in Hanoi was a sight for sore eyes! The view of vast green areas, lakes, rivers and colorful settlements finally calmed me down after an extremely turbulent flight. I had a taxi driver waiting for me at Noi Bai airport, arranged online by the hotel. I read that taxi cheats in Hanoi are quite often and after the additional warning from the hotel staff I decided not to take the risk. I am glad I didn’t because the taxi driver could barely speak English and I am not sure how I would argue with him if he wanted to pull some scam on me.

The minute I sat in the car I knew this trip would be very different from what I had been used to. Traffic jams, scooters with three or sometimes even four people “on board”, drivers horning and people jaywalking everywhere
 well, let’s just say you need to take a deep breath and realize you are in Vietnam 🙂

 

Hanoi traffic is beyond chaotic. Most of the people drive scooters, because this is the fastest and the most flexible option to move around the city. But the problem is that there are “9 billion” scooters in Hanoi. And none of the drivers seem to give a shit about you. They never stop in front of the crosswalks (with the exceptions of some traffic lights) – they just slow down and try to avoid you somehow. The same goes for the car drivers. And here is the catch – this is how things actually work here. Avoiding the traffic and simply crossing the road as hundreds of motorbikes whiz around you is all part of the fun. It is a bit challenging for the first, second and third time, but you get used to it very quickly 🙂

The cash “wow”

You can easily get confused by the high numbers on banknotes: 1 USD is about 22,000 Vietnamese Dongs (VND) and I suggest you study them well because some of them look the same. And it might be challenging for those who can’t do the math quickly enough (myself included) to pay 50,000 VD for something, what in fact only costs about 2 dollars.

I strongly recommend you to carry some change with you all the time. Credit cards are only accepted in hotels, but not in bars, street shops or taxis. Change around 20$ in the airport, because you will need it for your ride to the city, but don’t change too much because the currency exchange rate is not very good there.

The food “wow”

The food “wow” goes for cheap prices as well as for Vietnamese cuisine and habits. Most places just have plastic stools and small low tables that are literally placed in the road. On top of that add hundreds of motorbikes speeding past sometimes only a meter away and imagine the thrill 🙂 But at least the street food is good and very cheap. Their traditional local food is Phᜁ – a noodle soup with chicken and vegetables. You can find it around every corner and it costs only around 1.5 $. The same goes for the drinks – you’ll pay less than 2$ for a local beer Bia Hoi which is quite popular in Hanoi. One reason is because of the heat and humidity, especially during summer, and the other is that the beer tastes great and it is freshly made every day.

The dark side of the “food wow” is the fact that some restaurants in Vietnam still serve dogs meet as their specialty 🙁 Fortunately I didn’t see any of them because honestly I don’t know what I’d do if I saw human’s best friend on the menu. If you are challenged by exotic food, please rather go for snakes or insects which are plentifully served as well.

Where to stay in Hanoi

If you want to feel the real pulse of Hanoi, I suggest you stay somewhere in the charming Old Quarter. Accommodation options in Hanoi are vast and you can easily get a very good 3 star hotel for less than 50$ per night in a very good location. I stayed in Splendora Boutique Hotel the first night, but it was too noisy for me (if you don’t mind the noise from the street, I highly recommend it because the staff is super friendly, rooms are nice and breakfast is 5 stars!), so the next day I switched to Pan Pacific Hanoi hotel, which was fantastic and just what I needed. You can search for the hotels in Hanoi on Booking.com – click here to get a 15€ discount for your next booking.

Things to see in Hanoi

A must see is Hoan Kiem lake with a small island and Ngoc Son Temple, and if you walk around the lake you can see some fascinating old buildings from French colonialism era, like Hanoi Opera House, St Joseph’s Cathedral, Hanoi Post office, et. The second area worth exploring is the one from West Lake towards Ba Dinh square where you will find the impressive Ho Chi Minh mausoleum, with the embalmed body of “Uncle Ho” – the first Vietnamese President, as well as the President Palace, and some other imposing government buildings. You can check my top 5 things to see in Hanoi here.  And the beauty of it is that you won’t go broke even if you want to see everything. Entrance fees to most of the places worth visiting are usually around one or two USD.

To sum up

If you are already decided to visit Hanoi, scroll down to the very end of this post for some other useful price and travel tips and check the rest of my Hanoi photos here. For those who are only reading this for fun and still hesitating to go there one day: don’t. Hesitate, I mean. Hanoi is chaotic but charming. People are very friendly and the whole atmosphere is unexplainably romantic. Not to mention it is really affordable for all kinds of travelers and obviously a very popular backpakers destination. If you add a trip to the famous “James Bond” Ha Long Bay (many agencies in Hanoi offer one or 2 day trips there!) you can have a complete Hanoi Experience. And if you add a weak in one of the fabulous Vietnam beaches I bet you will be in heaven. OR you can wait and read about it in my blog. I am definitely visiting Vietnam again very soon! Scroll down for some other useful tips and prices!

Some other price and travel tips

  • Check your visa requirements at least 14 days before your departure. I applied for visa online with one of the agencies who »take care of it all«. I paid around 40$ for everything (hassle free, no waiting lines, personal approach), but if you do it yourself and are prepared to wait in line (sometimes over one hour!), you can get it for less than 15$ per person.
  • If you take an official and reliable taxi, you should look for “Taxi Group” with typical red and blue color or “Mai Linh Taxi” with typical green color. Taxi ride from Noi Bai Airport to Hanoi center costs fixed 15$ for a 5-seats car and 17$ for a van.
  • Uber in Hanoi runs surprisingly smoothly and they also offer scooter rides. Uber was my number one choice after I got to Hanoi. I also took it for my ride back to the airport and paid around 12$.
  • Local city busses cost less than 1$ in one direction.
  • If you are staying in Hanoi for more than just a day or two it is smart to buy a local sim card. The monthly package with VIETTEL (calls, SMS and unlimited mobile data) costs around 4 USD. Wi-Fi can come very handy if you get lost and want to use your GPS.
  • Weather: Despite the fact that Hanoi is located in Southeast Asia, it still has winters (December to February) with temperatures around 10 – 20°C. Springs and autumns are warmer, but have less sunny days – in my case (April) the sun was hiding behind the clouds and fog for 3 days in a row. Summers (June – August) are the hottest and craziest: the temperatures can reach up to 40 °C with high humidity and regular downpours.
  • Some entrance fees: Ngoc Son Temple: 0.70$, Hoa Lo Prison: 1.50$, Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum: 0.50$, Tran Quoc Pagoda and St Joseph’s Cathedral: free.

 

 

 

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5 things to see in Hanoi (Vietnam)

Asia Trips & Tricks Vietnam

I visited Hanoi in April 2017 during my first business trip to Vietnam and Malaysia and I had just enough time to see & feel the city’s charm. Hanoi is very easy to explore, because most of the attractions are located around 2 lakes (both quite central), and the beauty of it is that you can rent a scooter and do it the way locals do – for tourists it might seem a bit chaotic, but it’s definitely exciting and memorable! Here are 5 things to see in Hanoi if you are visiting the city just for a day or two:

1. Old Quarter

The easiest way to start exploring Hanoi is to book a hotel in the Old Quarter and you can do everything on foot from there. The Old Quarter is the oldest part of the city and the pulse there is something you need to feel for yourself. The streets are narrow and full of traffic, with scooters running up and down all the time. Endless street food “restaurants” offer delicious local dishes (mostly noodles and rice with veggies, chicken or beef) and chopped tropical fruits. Architecture lovers will enjoy the signature on the buildings from the French colonialism era (like neo-gothic style Saint Joseph Cathedral), and others can bargain for some quality clothes or souvenirs in one of numerous stores throughout this busy area. You do know that a lot of clothes from famous brands are “made in Vietnam”, right? 😉

Tip: I stayed one night in Boutique Splendora Hotel which has a very good location overlooking St Joseph Cathedral. The staff there is super friendly and they serve splendid breakfast. Just keep in mind that the Old Quarter is a very busy area so you might be disturbed by street noise during the night.   

2. Hoan Kiem Lake

Old Quarter ends with this cute lake, known for a very small island in the middle. The island hosts an ancient structure, called Turtle Tower (Thap RĂča), which was built to honor the legend of Golden Turtle God and a magic sward. A walk around Hoan Kiem Lake (due to the legend also known as Sword Lake) will take you about 20 minutes and it is a must for everyone. The path around the lake is surrounded by well-maintained green parks with a lot of benches to sit on and watch people making selfies or laugh at the tourists trying to cross the street for the first time.

Near the northern shore of the lake lies Jade Island with Hanoi’s most visited temple – Ngoc Son Temple (Temple of the Jade Mountain) from 18th century. Jade Island is connected to the lakeshore by elegant red-painted wooden Huc Bridge.

Tip: You pay peanuts to see the temple but make sure your shoulders are covered. Unfortunately I didn’t do my homework so I could only see it from the outside (they didn’t even allow me to step on the bridge!).

3. Ba ĐÏnh Square 

Ba Dinh Square is the center of Ba Dinh district and offers several interesting buildings, as well as some nice green parks to sit in and hide from sunlight (unless you visit Hanoi during winter, when sun mostly stays behind the clouds). This is also the square where president Ho Chi Minh declared the independence of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam back in September 1945.

The square is located close to the West Lake – the biggest freshwater lake in Hanoi. It is quite empty during the day (with the exception of Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum opening hours) but in the evenings it becomes a popular gathering place for locals who want to exercise or just hang out with friends. Some of the famous buildings around Ba Dingh Square are the yellow Presidential Palace and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and the National Assembly Building which lays the opposite of Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. The architecture of all these buildings is quite impressive so if you take your time to take some nice photos, you can easily spend a few hours here.

4. Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

As I already mentioned above, the most impressive building in Ba Dinh Square is Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, which was built in the mid-seventies, in honor of the respected President Ho Chi Minh. The building is actually a part of Ho Chi Minh complex, which consists of the Mausoleum – spectacular granite building with the embalmed body of the iconic leader laying in a glass case, the garden with plants donated from all regions of Vietnam, and Ho Chi Minh Museum (admission 0.5$)- a elaborate description of Ho Chi Minh’s life, with 8 chronological topics.

The entrance to Ho Chi Minh mausoleum is free, as long as you dress and behave respectfully: no short skirts or tank tops, no photos, talking or finger-pointing, no hands in your pockets and no bags inside (you can put them in safe deposits before you get in). The only chance to see the the leader is through a moving line – visitors are not allowed to stop and look at the embalmed body for longer time. Keep in mind that the mausoleum is only open 5 days a week (closed Mondays and Fridays) from 7 to 11 am, so you can imagine the queue that forms there during those times.

Tips: The mausoleum might be closed occasionally for maintenance so check its opening hours before your visit. The exhibit signs are not in English, so you might consider taking a tour guide in English to understand everything better.

5. Tran Quoc Pagoda

The oldest pagoda in Hanoi lies in the south east part of West Lake and you can reach it by crossing the Thanh Nien road (or bridge – whatever you want to call it). Tran Quoc Pagoda is over 1500 years old and it is famous for its lively scenery and sacred sanctuary. It is designed according to strict rules of Buddhist architecture with high »layered« towers and three main houses in sunny yellow colors.

Tran Quoc Pagoda is also a small museum of priceless antiques like worshiping statues in the front house. The one which is most outstanding is the statue Thich ca thap niet ban, also considered as the most beautiful statue of Vietnam.

Tips: If you want a great view of the West Lake and Tran Quoc Pagoda druing your stay you might want to check Pan Pacific Hanoi hotel – I stayed there my second night and I enjoyed it very much. The entrance to Tran Quoc Pagoda is free. Keep in mind that respectful clothes are to be worn here as well (although no one was there to haunt you like they did in Jade Island). Also try to avoid visiting Vietnamese temples during feast days – which is every 1st and 15th day of the lunar calendar month.

Hanoi is a charmer and a must for all Asia lovers. If you have more time during your visit, you can choose between several other sights to see here. And you are welcome to visit my Facebook album. for more Hanoi photos. Enjoy! 🙂

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Hotel review: Fraser Place (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia)

Asia Hotel reviews

When you go to Kuala Lumpur for the first time, you obviously want to stay near Petronas Towers, or better yet, with a view of the famous twins. I was in the city for 3 days on business and since I had one whole day off for sightseeing, I wanted to have a perfect location to reach the towers on foot and hop on a tourist bus to see the rest of the city. I checked a number of hotels and in the end I chose Fraser Place due to very good reviews, good location, rooftop pool and quite a reasonable price.  

Location

First of all let me explain there are 2 Fraser hotels in KL – the one I stayed in has 4 stars and is a bit closer to the twins (can’t blame a girl for trying to save her feet, right?). The other one, called Fraser Residence, is a 5 star hotel and has slightly better customer reviews, but is also a bit more expensive.

Fraser Place is not a typical hotel, it is actually connected with several buildings and restaurants, and that is quite awesome because you can order room service from any of them. It is located in a very busy area so getting there and away in rush hours is a headache. But this goes for the whole KLCC area. It is about 800 meters away from Petronas towers and the good news is that the bus station (KL hop on hop off and GO KL city buss) is literally just around the corner.

Rooms

Rooms are fantastic. My view was not as fabulous as the one from the pool but still impressive enough to get the feeling how small you actually are. But windows are big and rooms are bright and spacious.

The fanciest thing for me was the glass window in the bathroom which makes you see the rest of the room. And vice versa. So basically you can see your significant other taking a shower without getting wet 😉

Perks like free coffee and tea, rich choice of toiletries, bathtubs and slippers are there to make your stay even more comfortable. On top of that you get the whole kitchen with full equipment so you can be your own chef if you want.

Breakfast and dining

Well, don’t be your own chef, because the food is Kuala Lumpur is very good. Breakfast choice in Fraser place was rich and the dining room is charming. For dinner you can choose some of the already mentioned restaurants (I think they have Japanese, Italian and a Steakhouse), or order room service.  I ordered from Italian and it was yummy! The prices are quite high though.

Pool and fitness

Ah, the rooftop infinity pool with the view of skyscrapers! And not just any skyscrapers – the KL Tower! It is really fantastic, especially in the evening if you are lucky with the pink colors of the sunset. The pool is just about the right size to have a good swim and you can enjoy in the sunbeds later. Fraser Place also has fitness but I never used it. Sightseeing in tropical heat was exhausting enough 😉

Anda’s rate: 9.5 from 10

Bottom line: Fraser Place is a very good choice for business travelers and those who want a bit of luxury in the heart of the city at a descent price. I am not giving it a perfect 10 because I didn’t get the view of the twins. Even though the view of KL tower was quite impressive 😉

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Hotel review: House Spacapan – Ć pacapanova hiĆĄa (Komen, Slovenia)

Europe Hotel reviews Slovenia

Slovenia’s Karst region is known for its culinary delights, especially for its autochthonous red wine Teran and air-dried ham, called Prsut (Prơut). There are many guesthouses spread throughout the region, however the best ones are often booked far in advance during the season, from late May to early September. House Spacapan (originally in Slovene language: Ơpacapanova hiơa) is known for its hospitality and culinary reputation so we chose to stay there during one of our “Slovenia weekend-escapes”.

Location

Guest house Spacapan is located in a small Karst town Komen, very close to the beautiful Stanjel castle which is “a must” visit for all architecture and nature lovers. Komen is really small and since Spacapan restaurant lies practically on the main road, you cannot miss it. They have a small parking space in the backyard, but you can also find some parking spots across the street (in case you run into a busy weekend).

Rooms

Spacapan house has only 5 rooms and they are all equipped in comfortable rustic style. The one we stayed in was not particularly spacious, but it was enough for what we needed. The bathroom had a massage shower and that can come handy, especially if you are cruising through the Karst region on a bicycle and need some additional relaxation. Rooms have a small TV and offer complimentary wifi.

Wine cellar

This is something you definitely need to see. Spacapan cellar is a truly unique “underground” experience and its ambient makes you want to spend an evening or two just tasting their wines and local food. They even air-dry their own “prơut” (you can see some fine pieces of meat hanging from the ceiling), and we were told this drying process can take up to 4 years. No wonder it tastes like heaven!

The Spacapan cellar is also a very good place to rent for some special occasions like weddings, birthday parties or some other memorable events.

Restaurant

Breakfast is served in the restaurant in the ground floor which is also pleasantly furnished in rustic style. A handful of “diplomas” on the walls testify to the quality and hospitality of the main chef, Mrs Ada Spacapan, who has also been given a “Golden spoon” – Slovene culinary award. And if the other food is as good as our breakfast was, I can only say that you will be in culinary heaven. We were offered several choices of cheese and salami – all local and natural. Mrs Ada also served her home-made marmelades and everything tasted fantastic
 in fact I still drool like a dog when I think of that phenomenal slices of prĆĄut. Also the bread was made fresh that morning, and we were so full of everything that we didn’t even want desserts.

Anda’s rate: 8 from 10

Bottom line: I would recommend House Spacapan to foodies and wine lovers, as well as guests who are passing by Komen and need a place to stay for a night or two. I cannot imagine what anyone could do in Komen longer than that (unless you take it as your accommodation point and cruise around Karst and Coast region of Slovenia). Our experience was very pleasant, but since the apartments are officially rated 4 stars, I am giving them an 8 – some upgrades like bigger TV or complimentary tea/coffee makers would be nice. It is a pity that the rooms don’t have balconies where you could relax in the evening and breathe in the air, filled with the pleasant smell of prơut, making you crave for that “one more bite”.

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Hotel review: Pi Athens hotel (Athens, Greece)

Greece Hotel reviews

Every time I visit Athens, I hesitate between staying somewhere in the city center, or away from all the hustle and bustle. And every time I fall for Acropolis view. This is also what Hotel Pi Athens was promising, so I asked the hotel manager to get a room with the view. I got the view and I also got a fantastic room which was close to perfection.

Location

Hotel Pi Athens is very new, so not a lot of taxi drivers know it. But don’t worry they all use GPS, as well as do Uber drivers (by the way the drive to the airport will cost you around 30€ with Uber and a fixed rate 38€ with regular taxi). The hotel location is very convenient – literally a few steps away from the Panathenaic Stadium and across the main street from the National Gardens where you can have a relaxing walk or jogging in the evening. It is also convenient if you want to take Hop on Hop off bus, which stops at the entrance of National Gardens. If you are coming with rental car, they offer a free parking space just a few meters away.  

Rooms

I was escorted to my room on the 4th floor (the highest one) which dazzled me by the interior and architecture immediately. Of course I looked at the photos on the internet prior to my reservation but I thought they were rendered, so the modern and spacious design was a real pleasant surprise. Everything is in one space so you can see the bathtub from your bed. Kinky 😉 Only the toilet is discretely hidden behind the wall (with closed doors of course). The bed is comfortable, facing a flat screen TV which is rising from the floor. The room also offers a small fridge, complimentary bottled water and coffee/tea maker.

Now it’s time to come to that “close to perfection” moment. A big issue for me was the AC which blows directly onto your bed, and I can’t imagine how this works in the summer. I was in Athens in May and it was already hot, but I could sleep with my windows open so this cooled the room to a perfect temperature during the night. But during the day the room was boiling, so the only way to cool it was to run the AC and risk a headache from the fan. It would help if you could get an extra room key card to put in the charger when leaving the room. I didn’t bother asking as I only spent 2 nights there.

Hotel grounds

The minute you enter the hotel you realize it will be something special. There are two small spaces to relax in the reception, as well as a small terrace in the rooftop with a couple of sunbeds to rest in the evening while watching sunset over Acropolis. Honestly, the view cannot be compared to the one I witnessed in Athens Gate hotel because the hill is not so close, but if you are in Athens for the first time, it will do just fine. 

Breakfast space is again very open and modern – you can see that details were very carefully selected. The breakfast itself was at first a small disappointment for me, as I am used to rich choice of foods in 4 star hotels. But if you consider that hotel only has 6 rooms, it is logical they can’t indulge all tastes – it would be lavish to waste foods. And I totally support that. The choice of crunchy bread, delicious cheese and salami, on top of fresh made omelet, accompanied with freshly squeezed orange juice was more than I ever eat at home, so I honestly can’t complain.

Anda’s rate: 8,5 from 10

Bottom line: Pi Athens hotel is a true boutique gem close to the city center but still conveniently hidden in a quiet residential area, away from the busy streets of Athens. The owner is very friendly and helpful, cleaning services are fantastic and if you are used to heavy AC during summer, this is definitely a place to stay in. During winter I’d give it a 9 😉

 

 

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Antigua – the land of sea and sun

Caribbean Destinations

When it comes to Caribbean islands, I have visited Dominican Republic, Turks and Caicos, Cuba, Bahamas, Puerto Rico and Playa del Carmen in Mexico. Antigua is a bit less known but can easily match all famous Caribbean destinations. A beautiful and lush nature, stunning beaches, friendly and easy going people, very low crime rate and a diversity of vacation packages for different tastes and wallets, should make every wanderlust want to visit Antigua as soon as possible.

Fast facts

The country is officially named Antigua and Barbuda, after two major islands which are also the only ones inhabited (apart from around 50 smaller ones which surround them). The capital St John’s lies in Antigua and the country has an estimated population of around 90.000 inhabitants. Antigua and Barbuda was under the British rule until 1981, that’s why English is the official language, however understanding their local dialect is sometimes quite a challenge.

The official currency is East Caribbean Dollar, but US dollars are accepted almost everywhere. Of course, if you are willing to accept “daily mood” exchange rates 😉 The prices in more prestigious locations are sometimes crazy high but you can find some decent stores and places to eat as well. Imported products are expensive, and so is coffee. We never paid less than $4.5 for a small cappuccino (and by small, I mean really small, like Italian espresso).

Perfect climate year round

Antigua lies in the south-east part of Caribbean which makes it attractive to visit all year round. June, July and August are the hottest months, while the temperature in January falls down to an average of 25°C – so still warm enough for those who want to escape from cold continental winters. Winter months are the driest, but at the same time quite windy, which makes them attractive for kiters and surfers. If you want a crystal clear and waveless water, the locals recommend to visit Antigua in the spring, while the autumn months are more wet. And last but not the least, you will be happy to hear that the sea temperature never falls under 26°C 🙂

Getting there

If you arrive from Europe, the easiest answer to how to get to Antigua lies in finding direct flights from Frankfurt or London (probably those are not the only options, but I am from Slovenia so Frankfurt was the best choice). Don’t be surprised if you land in Dominican republic first, because airlines sometimes make small stopovers to pick up or drop down other passengers. The other option of visiting Antigua is on a cruise, which means you will anchor in St Jonh’s and get a few hours to spend on the island. In my opinion cruise is not a best option for getting to know Antigua – especially since St John’s isn’t much of a sight for sore eyes. If you are offered some trips by the ship staff – take them!

Where to stay

If you want a hassle free vacation, you can chose from quite a few all-inclusive hotels, but none of them are cheap. The closest “mid budget” option is Jolly Beach Resort & Spa – the biggest resort in Antigua, which is located on one of the most popular beaches in the West coast. We decided to rent a car for the whole vacation, so we were considering different options of accommodation, but in the end we chose Jolly Beach because of the convenient location and comfort. If your wallet is deep enough, you have some very fancy “adult only” options, but I advise you to check their locations first – they are not always directly on the beach and sometimes it will take you quite a share of walking to finally get that swim in the ocean.

If you are on a tight budget and don’t care so much for the comfort (after all you probably won’t come to Antigua to lie in a hotel room, right?), you can chose from reasonably priced and quite decent options for around $60 – 80 (price per double bedroom). You can search for the hotels and bungalows in Antigua on Booking.com – click here to get a 15€ discount for your next booking. And if you want to make your own meals, you can visit the supermarket in Jolly Harbour marina – they have a very good offer of fresh and healthy foods, as well as some cosmetics, supplements and medicines. Other stores throughout the island are mostly stocked with cans and snacks – and can be quite pricey, depending on the location.

Getting around

The best way to see and feel the island is by hiring a car and taking it easy. And I mean really easy, because renting a car in Antigua is anything but a piece of cake. You will find most of the major car rental offices in the Airport, and the prices are not crazy high – although I do recommend you to book your car in advance, especially during peak periods in order to avoid any alst minute surprises.

The hard part comes after you get your car keys. First of all, they drive on the left (British rule, remember?) and if you are not an experienced driver, you should think twice about doing it
 The second problem are the roads, which are pretty much all in a very bad shape. Sometimes the halls in them are so big that you can easily get a flat tire, lose your wheel cover… or the wheel itself.

For those who are not so adventurous, the safest and easiest way to explore the island is to book a trip in your hotel or with some local agency. You probably won’t see as much as you would if you were your own boss, nevertheless I strongly advise you to get your butt off that sunbed and experience life beyond your beer-beach routine 😉

Exploring Antigua

The total area of Antigua is about 280 square kilometers, with about 21 km distance from west to east coast, which makes the island perfect to explore within a few days. You will soon discover that Antigua offers so much more than “just” fabulous beaches!

First of all, Antigua is full of small forts and lookouts, which were once used by the British military to defend the island in the event of attacks (though none of them ever really happened). Today these forts are more or less in ruins, however they make great attractions to visit – especially since most of them are free to see. Fort Barrington was my favorite, together with Shirley Heights lookout, which is a must for everyone who wants to see the picture postcard view of Antigua.

If you are into hiking, Antigua offers some nice trails, with the Lookout Trail being one of the most popular ones. It can either be approached from the top of Shirley Heights lookout, or from the bottom – just up the road from Freeman’s Bay, which is a bit more challenging. If you are thinking of visiting the island’s highest point Mount Obama, I suggest you read my post about 5 things you shouldn’t do in Antigua, and decide for yourself if you want to do it or not.

The capital St John’s is not so typical Caribbean town – I don’t know exactly why but I didn’t like it at all. Maybe because we couldn’t find any decent coffee spot (which in my book means Italian cappuccino with a sea view) or perhaps because there simply aren’t many things to see there in terms of architecture or history. St John’s cathedral is a beauty, but that’s about it. If you want to shop some souvenirs or feel the capital’s pulse, take a few hours and enjoy the tranquility, but if you are an experienced traveler, you might as well skip it, as there are many other more interesting spots waiting for you. To see my proposal of 5 things to see in Antigua, click here. 

I saved the beach part for last as this is something that deserves its own chapter. Antigua has 365 beaches, one for each day in the year. And don’t worry, not all of them are the same – there is something for every taste. If you are, like me, fond of white sandy beaches and turquoise ocean, you definitely need to visit Valley Church beach and Darkwood beach, which are very close to the already mentioned Jolly beach. Then there is a very popular and thus a bit more crowded (if the word crowd can at all be used in Antigua) Long Bay beach with colorful wooden cottages, used by beach vendors for selling souvenirs and drinks.

If you want more privacy you can escape to Hermitage bay, Hawksbill bay or Galley bay (they are all semi-private, or at least parts of them are for hotel guests only), and if you want to enjoy the long walks along the ocean, go for Halfmoon or Rendezvous bay. Kiters and surfers will find their waves on Jabberwock beach, while yachts and boat lovers will enjoy the views in Galleon and Pigeon beach in English Harbour.

Antigua is indeed a perfect little paradise, with very reasonable prices for travelers who are ready to do some homework, and on the other hand a luxury retreat for those who want to enjoy private Caribbean vacation in exclusive places. If you are still not convinced of its beauty, check my Facebook photo album. For me it was love at first sight. And I just might visit Antigua again soon!

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5 things to see in Antigua

Caribbean Trips & Tricks

Despite the fact that this lovely Caribbean island is relatively small and is mostly known for its gorgeous beaches, Antigua offers much more – thanks to its history and diversity of the area. Even if you are visiting the island for only a week, I suggest you take one of the trips, offered by local agencies, or – even better – hire a car and explore the island by yourself. Besides the beaches, I can suggest you these 5 things to see in Antigua:

  • Fort Barrington

This small fort is located on the top of the hill, rising above the beautiful Deep bay. You can only access it on foot and it will take you about 20 minutes of average walk in flip flops to reach the top. For an easier hike rather wear some sneakers, as it does get slippery from time to time. On the top of you will be rewarded with jaw-dropping views: from white sandy Deep bay beach and 50 shades of blue Caribbean sea, across lush valleys and hills, all the way to the capital St John’s which you will recognize by large cruise ships, anchored in the marina. Don’t forget a bottle of water!

  • Shirley Heights

The most typical picture postcard from Antigua is taken from Shirley Heights, overlooking the English Harbour – a beautiful bay full of white boats and yachts, surrounded with small bays and sandy beaches. For this view you’ll need to drive to the Shirley Heights National park (8$ per person entrance fee), which is well worth visiting. The park itself is actually a plateau with an old fort which also offers some great south-coast views, ending with Shirley Heights Lookout on the west side. Just before the lookout you will find a small property where you can see a 15-minute movie about Antigua’s history (they play it in a complete dark and in a very chilled space, which is quite refreshing) – the movie is included in the fee, and so is the entrance to a smaller park called Nelson’s Dockyard, which lies in the bay below.

  • Stingray City

Stingray City is a property which offers boat trips to the ocean, where you can swim with stingrays. It is quite popular tourist activity so I recommend you to book it in advance (they only do 3 trips per day) and ask if they are expecting any crowds (cruise ships can bring masses of people, which is really a pain in the ass). The trip costs 50$ per person and it includes a welcome drink, short educative introduction and snorkeling mask. Try not to bring too much stuff with you as you will have to leave it in the car (take only a camera and perhaps a towel). The boat ride takes about 10 minutes, and it stops in the middle of the ocean, above a small turquoise surface where stingrays hang out. You will be escorted by the trained guides who catch them and offer you opportunities to take pictures. It is quite nice, but not as adrenaline as you might think from the tourist reviews 😉

  • Devil’s Bridge

Thousands of years of angry ocean hitting the rocky coast of eastern Antigua have made this natural bridge an exciting sightseeing spot. Devil’s Bridge is located near Indian Town Point, east of Willikies. The area around the arch features several naturally made  blowholes  which shoot up water with the help of the waves from Atlantic Ocean. The bridge itself doesn’t have any real function, but it does offer quite an adrenalin walk, with high chances of getting you wet.

  • Jolly Harbour

Jolly Harbour is a very popular place because of it’s long white sandy beach and the biggest all-inclusive resort in Antigua. Jolly Harbour marina offers some very fine places for dining, shopping and watching sunsets. If you are craving for some fresh groceries, you will be happy to hear that marina includes a quite large supermarket (I believe it is the only one in the island), called Epicurean Fine Foods & Pharmacy, which offers a variety of junk and healthy foods, dairy products, as well as some basic medicines and cosmetics. Very handy if you are visiting Antigua on a budget!

Click here for more information about my Antigua experience, check my Facebook photo album and some tips, about what you shouldn’t do in there 😉

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